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Glossary of Terms

Glossary of Terms

1-9, A-B

1×1 Rib. This narrow rib has a soft, fine hand and retains its slim fit.

2×1 Rib Knit. Textured rib knit with a comfortable stretch—made to be worn alone or layered.

2-Way Zipper. A zipper with two zipper pulls so the garment can be unzipped from either direction.

3-in-1 Jacket. A jacket that consists of two jacket layers that zip together. You can wear either jacket layer separately, or zip them together for extra warmth and weather protection.

4-Needle Stitching. A finish commonly used on a sleeve or bottom hem that uses four needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching, giving the garment a cleaner, more finished look, as well as adding durability.

4-Way Stretch. A fabric that stretches both on the crosswise and lengthwise grains of the fabric. Also called mechanical stretch, except mechanical stretch doesn’t use spandex or other stretch yarns.

Air Jet Yarn. A type of open-end spinning that uses a stationary tube in which jets of air are directed to cause fibers to twist thereby forming a yarn. This process definitely influences the soft hand feel of the fabric while maintaining excellent resistance to pilling.

All-Weather Microfiber. Fabric that is tightly woven from an extremely fine poly thread with a sueded finish for a luxuriously supple feel. When combined with waterproof coating and full seam sealing, microfiber is 100% waterproof. 100% polyester.

Allen Solley Placket A one-piece placket that’s hidden after being sewn. This process utilizes the existing fabric for the outside placket face.

ANSI. The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) is an organization that promotes standards for industry and government.

ANSI Class 2. An ANSI designation for garments that are intended for activities where greater visibility is necessary during inclement weather. It also covers workers who perform tasks that divert their attention from approaching traffic or puts them in close proximity to vehicles traveling 25 mph or higher.

ANSI Class 3. An ANSI designation for garments that provide the highest level of visibility and are intended for workers who face more serious hazards than Class 2.

Anti-Bacterial A finish or treatment that inhibits the growth of bacteria.

Antimicrobial. A term used for a garment that is able to resist, either naturally or chemically, the effects of microbial secretions put off by the human body, resisting odor and increasing garment life.

Anti-Pill Finish. A treatment applied to garments primarily to resist the formation of little balls on the fabric’s surface due to abrasion during wear. See Pilling.

Arc Rating. A value of the energy necessary to pass through any given fabric to cause with 50% probability a second- or third-degree burn. This value is measured in calories/cm2. Simply put, the Arc rating determines the protective characteristics of the fabric. The higher the Arc rating value, the greater the protection.

Articulation. A design detail usually in the shoulders, elbows or knees where limbs bend to increase mobility for greater ease of movement.

ATPV. Stands for Arc Thermal Protective Value: a rating of the Arc burn protection capability of a garment. The higher the Arc rating, the more protection a garment gives because it has a higher resistance to catching on fire. The ATPV is expressed in calories/cm2 and represents the thermal exposure from an electric arc that will create a second-degree burn in human tissue.

Athleisure. The movement where clothing designed for athletics is worn outside the gym to the office or to socialize.

Baby Pique Knit. A knitting method that creates a fine, small textured surface that appears similar to a very small waffle weave. See Pique Knit.

Back Yoke. A piece of fabric that connects the back of a garment to the shoulders. This allows the garment to lay flat and drape nicely.

Banded Self Collar A type of collar made of the same material as the shirt. The two basic kinds of this collar are the simulated, made of two pieces, or the true, made of four pieces.

Bartack. To reinforce a seam with a bar of stitches, providing a more durable seam end. Commonly used at stress points.

Base Layer. Worn next to the skin, a base layer wicks sweat and keeps the wearer drier and more comfortable.

Basket weave A variation of the plain weave in which two or more threads are woven side by side to resemble a “basket” look. Fabrics have a loose construction and loose appearance.

Bias Cut. A technique used by designers for cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the “bias” or diagonal direction of the fabric, thereby causing it to accentuate body lines and curves and drape softly.

Binding A strip of material sewn or attached over or along the edge of something for protection, reinforcement or ornamentation. Biowash Also known as bio-polishing or enzyme treatment. This is a chemical process to remove short fibers from fabrics so that the finished fabrics can have a cleaner surface. The process weakens the fibers so that they are more readily to break off, thus improve the pilling resistance but at the same time reduce the bursting strength of the fabric. Since the treatment is done in an acidic condition and at high temperature, noticeable color change will be unavoidable so usually this process is done before dyeing. Birdseye Jacquard A small geometric pattern with a center dot knit into the fabric.

Blanket Stitch. A decorative stitch often used to finish an unhemmed blanket. The stitch can be seen on both sides of the blanket.

Blend. A yarn or a fabric that is made up of more than one type of fiber.

Blind Stitch Hem. (Alternative) A sewing stitch producing stitches visible on one side only.

Bonded Fleece. Multiple layers of fleece are bonded together to form a higher functioning garment.

Bonding. The technique of permanently joining together two fabrics or layers of fabrics together by a bonding agent into one unit.

Box Pleat. A single, uniform fold in the center back of a garment to allow for more room and comfort.

Breathability. The movement of air from one side of the fabric to the other to keep the wearer comfortable. The breathability rating is typically expressed in a gram measurement of how much vapor a square meter (G/M2) of fabric will allow to pass in a 24-hour period (typically, 1,000G/M2 to 10,000000G/M2). Generally, the higher the number, the more breathable the garment.

Brim The projecting edge of a hat. Broadcloth A close plain-weave fabric made of cotton, rayon or a blend of cotton or rayon with polyester.

Brushed. A finishing process for knit or woven fabrics in which brushes or other abrading devices are used to raise a nap on fabrics or create a novelty surface texture.

Buckram Stiff fabric used to give shape and form to items like caps, belts, etc. Also used to stabilize embroidery edges.

Button-Down Collar. Found on many men’s dress wovens, where the collar’s wings can be buttoned to the front of the shirt, minimizing the spread between the wings.

Button-Through Sleeve Placket. A small placket located near the end of the sleeve, by the cuff, which contains a single button closure.

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C-D

CamoHex (Sport-Tek). A sublimated digital camouflage that uses small hexagons in a tonal pattern.

Carded Ring Spun Cotton. Carded yarns have not been combed. They contain a wider range of fiber lengths and, as a result, are not as uniform or as strong as combed yarns.

Cashmere A luxury fiber obtained from the soft fleecy undergrowth of the cashmere goat

Casual Microfiber. Tightly woven fabric from a very fine polyester thread, usually with a sueded finish for a soft feel. Inherently water repellent and wind resistant due to its construction. 100% polyester microfiber.

Category 2 Protection (Bulwark). Arc-rated flame-resistant (FR) long sleeve shirt and FR pants or FR coverall with a required minimum ATPV (Arc Thermal Protective Value) of 8 cal/cm2.

Cationic Polyester. A type of polyester fiber that takes deep and brilliant colors without bleeding or fading. Cationic polyester optimizes printability.

Chain stitch A machine stitch forming a chain on the underside of the fabric.

Chambray. A plain woven fabric that can be made from silk or manufactured fibers, but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored warp and white filling yarns.

Chin guard. A fold of soft fabric around the end of the zipper that helps prevent abrasion. Also known as a zipper garage.

Chino Cotton A sturdy, medium weight twill cotton fabric used for uniforms and sometimes work or sports clothes. Clean-Finished Placket Typically the interfacings of plackets are raw or edged, which means they can look ragged or uneven, particularly on light-colored shirts. By cutting the interfacing in a rectangle, turning the edges under and fusing them in place, there is a straight placket with no raw edges. All that shows inside the shirt is the smooth edge. ClimaCool® Exclusive Adidas technology providing Sweat and heat management through ventilation and moisture management ClimaLite® Exclusive Adidas technology. Light, breathable fabrics that conduct heat and sweat away from the body to keep the wearer comfortable and dry in warm conditions. ClimaProof® Exclusive Adidas technology. A lightweight, breathable shell that keeps wind, rain and snow out while allowing heat and sweat to escape through evaporation. CLIMAPROOF® locks out energy sapping weather extremes so you stay dry and comfortable in even the harshest conditions. Don’t just suffer through the wind, snow or rain, bend the elements to your will with the help of three CLIMAPROOF® elements for apparel: ClimaProof® Wind, ClimaProof® Rain and ClimaProof® Storm. ClimaWarm® Exclusive Adidas technology offering lightweight, breathable insulation that keeps you dry and comfortable in cold weather conditions by using densely woven synthetic fibers to trap warm air close to the skin. While these fibers are dense enough to trap air, they are spaced far enough apart to easily allow heat-sapping sweat to escape through evaporation.

Coil (OGIO). A metallic colored coil zipper.

Collar. The upright or turned-over neckband of a coat, jacket or shirt.

Collarette A trim around the neck of a t’shirt or sweatshirt

Collar Stand. On a woven shirt, the collar stand is around the neck and placed between the actual collar and the shirt. This stand raises the collar so its finished edge will fall smoothly back over the neck edge.

Color Block Merchandising and/or cutting term whereby a certain type or block of colors ends up in the same place every time on the finished garment.

Colorfast. A dyed fabric’s ability to resist fading due to washing, exposure to sunlight and other environmental conditions.

Combed Ring Spun Cotton. A process by which the short fibers of a yarn are removed and the remaining longer fibers are arranged in parallel order for a high-quality yarn with excellent strength, fineness and uniformity.

Compacting Process that compacts the space between fabric fiber pockets. This will prevent cotton shrinkage. Comprehension Straps Straps which securely hold the inner contents of a bag. Compression Molded A solid, pre-formed molded panel that is created using compression. Cool & Dry® Yupoong moisture management technology Cool Knit A variation of pique that results in a different texture and surface appearance. It resembles a “waffle” pattern. Cool-Crown™ A mesh liner used inside Adams Headwear which is designed to promote cooling and minimize staining. Coolmax® Extreme Wicking performance fabric that moves moisture away from the skin, keeping people cool and comfortably dry all day long

Cord Locks. A stopper or toggle on a drawcord that keeps the cord from retracting into the garment.

Corduroy. A cut filling pile cloth with narrow to wide ribs. Usually made of cotton, but can be found in polyester and other synthetic blends.

Cotton. Soft vegetable fiber obtained from the seedpod of the cotton plant.

Cotton Count. A measure of thread density. It is the amount of thread measured in “hanks” (840 yards) needed to create one pound. With this system, the higher the number, the finer the yarn. In the United States, a cotton count between one and 20 is referred to as course counts. A regular single knit t-shirt can be between 15-18 count and a fashion tee is usually in the 30-40 count range.

Cotton Jersey (Alternative). Alternative’s cotton jersey is made from 100% washed cotton for a distinctly soft, beautifully simple product that is rich in color and velvety smooth to the touch.

Cotton Modal (Alternative). By using a self-sufficient process and extracting the finest fibers from beechwood forests, Alternative created an environmentally friendly fabric that is twice as soft as conventional cotton.

Cotton Sheeting Plain-weave cotton fabric, usually prelaundered, used for fashion sportswear. It’s wrinkled to create crinkle cotton.

Coverseamed. A finish in which two needles are used to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It is used around the neck, armholes, waistband and wrists of garments to create a cleaner, more durable finish.

Critically Seam-Sealed. Select (or critical) seams are taped with waterproof tape. This helps prevent moisture from getting in through the seams where it is most likely to occur–such as the shoulders, armholes or hood.

Crew Collar A rounded, ribbed collar cut loose to the neck. Crinkle Cotton Cotton that is given a crinkled, lightly wrinkled or pleated appearance through chemical treatment or mechanical means. The treatment gives added texture to the garment. Crop Top A shirt style made to expose the midriff. Crown The upper-most part of the cap of a hat that is sewn to either a hatband, brim or sweat band. Cross Grain The term “cross-grain” in the US refers to the direction perpendicular to the length-of-grain (selvage edges), not the diagonal of the fabric

Cuff. The part of the sleeve encircling the wrist. Also the turned-back hem of a trouser leg.

Deboss. To depress below the surrounding fabric surface for decoration or lettering. Often confused with embossing which is to raise in relief from a surface.

Denier. A system of measuring the weight of a continuous filament fiber. The lower the number, the finer the fiber; the higher the number, the heavier the fiber.

Denim A cotton or blended fabric with right- or left-hand twill construction. The wrap is usually dyed blue with a white filing.

Diamond Era (New Era). Inspired by the iconic fabric used in their famous baseball caps, this textured fabric wicks moisture and resists snags.

District Fit. District has a slim fit that is close to the body. The styles have shorter sleeves and tighter and higher armholes than District Made.

District Made Fit. District Made has a comfortable fit with a relaxed waist. The styles have longer sleeves and more relaxed and lower armholes than District.

Dobby. A decorative weave, usually geometric, that is woven into the fabric. Standard dobby fabrics are usually flat and relatively fine or sheer.

Double Dry® Exclusive Champion technology that wicks perspiration for a dry-all-day feel. Disperses moisture for faster drying. Keeps body temperatures lower so you can play in cool comfort

Dolman Sleeve. A sleeve tapered from a very large armhole to fit closely at the wrist. Usually cut in one piece with the body of the garment.

Double Knit. A circular knit fabric knitted via double stitch on a double needle frame to provide a double thickness.

Double-Needle Stitching. A finish commonly used on a sleeve or bottom hem that uses two needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching, giving the garment a cleaner, more finished look, as well as adding durability.

Down. The soft, fluffy under feathers of ducks and geese. Serves as an excellent outerwear thermal insulator.

Draw cord A cord or ribbon run through a hem or casing, pulled to tighten or close an opening. Dri-Fast Advantage™ Exclusive Devon & Jones technology providing advanced moisture management to keep you dry, cool and comfortable. It even blocks the sun’s harmful rays. Dri-Fast™ Exclusive Devon & Jones technology that provides moisture management to keep you dry, cool and comfortable.

Dri-FIT (NIKE ). Fabric that helps keep the wearer comfortable and dry by moving perspiration from the skin, through the layers of fabric, to the outside layer for rapid evaporation across the outer surface area.

Dri-Mesh® Polyester. The double layer mesh construction releases heat and sweat, while maintaining breathability. 100% polyester double mesh.

Drop Needle. A knit fabric characterized by vertical lines within the cloth. Manufactured by dropping a needle from the knitting cylinder.

Drop Tail. A longer back than front for the purpose of keeping the shirt tucked in. Also referred to as Extended Tail.

DryVent™ (The North Face). Styles that are engineered to be fully waterproof, windproof and breathable.

Dry Zone® Technology. A double-layer polyester fabrication that wicks moisture away from the body.

Duck Cloth. Tightly woven, plain-weave, bottom-weight fabric with a hard, durable finish that provides wind and snag resistance.

DuPont™ Teflon® Trademark of DuPont. Stain resistant, water repellent finish applied to textiles. This treatment gives the fabric a protective coating without affecting any of the fabrics inherent properties. Dura-Pearl™ Pearlized type button trademarked by Broder Bros., Co.

DWR. Durable water repellent. A DWR treatment involves applying a coating to a jacket’s outermost fibers to prevent precipitation from saturating the jacket’s exterior.

Dyed-To-Match. A term which characterizes buttons or trims that are the same color as the garment onto which they are sewn.

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E-H

Eco-Jersey (Alternative). This classic medium-weight jersey features a signature vintage-soft feel and is made from eco ingredients, including recycled polyester, organic cotton and rayon yarns.

Eco-Fleece (Alternative). Alternative’s iconic medium-weight Eco-Fleece is knit on machines calibrated to replicate a vintage-soft look and feel.

Eco-Smart® (Hanes). 50/50 cotton/poly blend tees and sweatshirts made with up to 5% recycled polyester from plastic bottles.

Egyptian Cotton Cultivated in Egypt’s Nile River Valley, this cotton is regarded as one of the finest cotton in the world. The particular growing season gives the cotton the longest and strongest fibers, making it ideal for weaving into smooth, strong yarn. Commonly used in high-end towels and linens. End-On-End A weave pattern in which the warp yarn (the yard running lengthwise) alternates between colors.

Enzyme Washed. A laundering process in which a catalytic substance is added to create a chemical change in the fabric resulting in a very soft finish, smoother appearing surface and reduced shrinkage.

Epaulet. An ornamental fabric strip or loop sewn across the shoulder of a shirt, dress or coat.

Ergonomic. Design elements incorporated into a garment to improve the design by enhancing the wearer’s comfort, performance or health.

Etched Tone Buttons. A more upscale horn tone button with an etched pattern.

EXCEL FR® ComforTouch® (Bulwark). This practical 88/12 cotton/nylon blend provides long-lasting protection for nearly all work environments. Applications include ferrous metals, electrical utilities and the chemical, oil, gas and petrochemical industries. Every EXCEL FR ComforTouch garment is engineered to provide flame resistance for the life of the garment.

Extended Tail. A longer back than front for the purpose of keeping the shirt tucked in. Also referred to as Drop Tail.

Extreme Heather (District). A soft, durable fabric made of a poly/cotton blend. It has a nicely striated, heathered look.

Eyelets. Small holes or perforations made in a series to allow for breathability. Finished with either stitching or brass grommets.

EZCotton. Soft, smooth and durable 100% cotton pique that resists shrinking, wrinkling, pilling and fading.

Fabric Memory A fabrics ability to return to its original dimensions after being stretched out of shape. Face Yarn The exterior yarn of a fabric.

Fill Power. The measure of the loft or “fluffiness” of a down garment that is loosely related to the insulating value of the down. The higher the fill power, the more trapped air an ounce of the down can trap, and thus the more insulating ability an ounce of the down will have.

Flame-Resistant (FR) These fabrics and garments are intended to resist ignition, prevent the spread of flames away from the immediate area of high heat impingement and to self-extinguish almost immediately upon removal of an ignition source. FR clothing is NOT fireproof.

Flat Back Mesh (Sport-Tek RacerMesh). A double-ply polyester knit fabric consisting of an open-hole mesh layer with polyester layer behind to make it “flat back”. You get the breathability of mesh without showing any skin.

Flat Collar/Cuffs. A single ply fabric with a finished edge that is used for collars and cuffs on sport shirts and short sleeve garments. Also known as welt.

Flatlock Stitching. Made by bringing two raw fabric edges together and covering them with machine stitching. Often used in activewear.

Flexfit®. The original stretchable hat featuring Flexfit stretchable sweatband technology.

French Cuff. A shirt cuff that is folded back before fastening, creating a double-layered cuff.

French Terry Cotton. The knit jersey version of terry cloth. It features loops of pile on one side and a smooth, brushed finish on the other for softness and a lived-in, vintage look.

Full Cut. Refers to a garment’s fit as being generous and roomy.

Fully Fashioned. A garment that’s knitted to fit the shape of the body.

Fully Seam-Sealed. Every seam throughout the jacket is sealed with waterproof tape to help prevent water from leaking in.

Fused Lining A lining that is fused to the two outer plies with solvent, heat and pressure. It’s used to stabilize or stiffen parts of a garment, such as a pocket or collar.

Garment Dyed. A dyeing process that occurs after the garment is assembled.

Garment Wash Process of industrially washing garments after they have been manufactured to remove sizing; it also softens and pre-shrinks.

Garment Washed. A wash process where softeners are added to finished garments to help the cotton fibers relax. The result is a fabric with a thicker appearance, reduced shrinkage and a softer hand.

Grommet An eyelet of firm material to strengthen or protect an opening.

Grosgrain. A firm, closely woven fabric with narrow horizontal stripes. Commonly used for ribbons, neckties and trimmings.

Gusset Triangular inserts in sleeve seams to widen and strengthen.

Hand. Quality or characteristic of fabrics perceived by sense of touch—softness, firmness or drapability

Heavyweight Fabric heavier than 10 ounces per linear yard, equal to 1.60 yield. Standard weight in the industry is 8 ounces (2.0 yield) or lighter. Henley Shirt featuring a banded neck and button placket; may be ribbed.

Heritage Blend (New Era). A 60/40 ring spun combed cotton/poly blend that creates an unbelievably soft tee with the comfort of a past era.

Herringbone. A chevron or zig-zag pattern knit into fabric. Commonly used in golf shirts and twill shirts.

High Cotton Refers to fabrics woven with a relatively high thread count, resulting in a dense, tight fabric.

High Profile. A term used for a cap or hat silhouette that is less fitted to the head with a high slope. Usually structured with buckram or other stiff fabric lining.

Hook and Loop. A fastener closure system. The rough side is called the hook. Its softer mate is called loop. The hooks engage into the loop and provide the closure. Colloquially known as VELCRO®.

Horn Tone Buttons. Buttons that appear to be manufactured from horn.

Houndstooth. A medium-sized broken check effect that is knit into the fabric.

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I-M

IL50 (Industrial Laundry). Signifies that a garment has been certified to withstand at least 50 industrial launderer washes.

Insulated Jacket. A jacket designed to hold body heat close and buffer surrounding cold air. Down, fleece and synthetic fibers are common insulators. Insulation levels help determine warmth ratings.

Interlock Knit. A two-ply fabric knit simultaneously to form one thicker and heavier ply. It has more natural stretch than a jersey knit, a soft hand, and the same appearance and feel on both sides. Commonly used in knit shirts and turtlenecks.

Jacquard Knit. Often an intricate pattern knit directly into the fabric during the manufacturing process. Typically, two or more colors are used.

Jersey Knit. The consistent interloping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produce a fabric with a smooth, flat face and a more textured, but uniform back.

Jock Tag (New Era). A rectangular piece of woven fabric located at the hem of athletic jerseys.

Johnny Collar A type of neckline that forms a “Y” at the front of the neck. Commonly used in women’s sportswear.

Kangaroo Pocket (Alternative). Another name for a front pouch pocket in a sweatshirt or t-shirt. Called a split kangaroo pocket in a full-zip garment.

Lap Shoulders (Rabbit Skins). A detail in infant tees and bodysuits in which the fabric overlaps at the neckline and shoulders for easier changing.

Linen. A fabric made from linen fibers obtained from inside the woody stem of the flax plant. Linen fibers are much stronger and more lustrous than cotton. Linen fabrics are very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle easily, unless blended with manufactured fibers.

Lisle High-quality cotton yarn made by plying yarns spun from long, combed staple.

Locker Loop. A looped piece of fabric in the neck of a garment for the convenience of hanging the garment on a hook. Can also be located at the center of the back yoke on the inside or outside of a garment.

Locker Patch. A semi-oval panel sewn into the inside back portion of a garment, just under the collar seam to reinforce the garment and minimize stretching when hung on a hook. The patch also allows for the garment tag or label to be sewn below the neckline to help prevent irritation.

Logo An artistic interpretation of a company’s sign or symbol. These figures can be copyrighted or trademarked. Permission is needed for duplication.

Low Impact Technology (L.I.T.). Enhances the softness and performance of 100% polyester fleece in that the yarns are able to accept dye more readily which uses less water and energy than standard dyeing procedures.

Low Profile. A term used for a cap or hat silhouette that is more closely fitted to the head. Can be either structured or unstructured.

Lycra® Fiber INVISTA’s trademark for a synthetic fabric material with the elastic properties of spandex. Lyocell Manufactured fiber made of regenerated cellulose (plant fiber). Lyocell has a similar hand and drape to rayon, but is stronger and more durable. It has a subtle luster and takes color well, and has good wrinkle-resistant qualities. It also absorbs moisture well.

Matte Taslan. A durable and water repellent nylon fabric, used mainly in outerwear garments. Same properties and hand as traditional Taslan, but with a dull, matte finish.

Melange. A mix of different colors of yarns knit together to create a heathered effect.

Mercerized A process that eliminates all of the small “hairs” of yarn, which adds to its luster. This yarn is then additionally run through a caustic solution, which further smoothes and adds gloss to the yarn surface by burning off additional fabric hairs.

Mesh. A type of fabric characterized by its net-like open appearance and the spaces between the yarns. Mesh is available in a variety of constructions, including wovens, knits, laces or crocheted fabrics.

Microburn® (District/District Made). 75/25 poly/ring spun cotton tees that have a rare blend of shades for an unusually lightweight feel and a one-of-a-kind look.

Microfiber. Tightly woven fabric from a very fine polyester thread, usually with a sueded finish for a soft feel. Inherently water repellent and wind resistant due to its construction.

Microfleece. Crafted from ultra-fine yarn, this lightweight, high-density fleece is brushed less than a regular fleece garment for softness and warmth without bulk.

Micro stripe An ultra-fine stripe knit into the fabric Micro suede A synthetic fabric napped on one side to resemble suede leather. Short, close nap gives a soft, smooth hand.

Mid-Layer. Worn over the base layer, this layer traps warm air, breathes and helps maintain body heat.

Mid Profile. A term used for a cap or hat silhouette that is in between that of a High Profile and Low Profile. Most often structured with buckram.

Mitten Cuffs (OGIO Endurance). Cuffs that fold over (like mittens) to completely cover the hands for additional warmth.

Mock Turtleneck A shortened version of the turtleneck where the neck of the garment does not fold over.

Modal Blend (District/District Made). A super soft fabric made of a blend of ring spun cotton/modal. Modal is soft, smooth and breathable with a texture similar to cotton or silk. It washes well and resists pilling, so the garment looks better, longer.

Modern Stretch Cotton. A breathable fabric made from a blend of cotton and spandex to provide a flattering stretch. 96% cotton. 4% spandex.

Moisture-Wicking Moisture management fabrics which transport moisture away from the body, keeping the wearer cool and dry

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N-R

Nailhead. A jacquard knitting pattern in which the jacquard forms a design similar to small nail heads.

Nap. A fuzzy, fur-like feel created when fiber ends extend from the basic fabric structure to the fabric surface. The fabric can be napped on one or both sides.

Neckband. A strip of fabric sewn around the inside of the neck in a woven shirt.

NFPA® 2112 Compliant (Bulwark). Bulwark Protective Apparel offers flame-resistant protective garments that are certified by Underwriters Laboratories to meet the requirements of NFPA 2112 Standard on Flame-Resistant Garments for Protection of Industrial Personnel Against Flash Fire, 2012 Edition. NFPA 2113 Standard on Selection, Care, Use and Maintenance of Flame-Resistant Garments for Protection of Industrial Personnel Against Flash Fire, 2015 Edition, requires that garments cover the upper and lower body and flammable underlayers as completely as possible. Bulwark garments meet this requirement either as a single garment such as a coverall or when worn with another certified garment such as a shirt or pants to provide both upper and lower body coverage.

Non-Iron. A term characterizing fabric that has been chemically treated to resist wrinkles, eliminating the need for ironing.

Notch Lapel. The most common lapel found on blazers. The “notch” is the opening where the bottom of the collar meets the top of the lapel at a 75-90 degree angle.

Nublend® Fleece (JERZEES®). A combined knitting and spinning process developed by JERZEES® for the prevention of pilling.

Nylon. A synthetic fiber with high strength and abrasion resistance, low absorbency and good elasticity.

One-Ply Yarn One strand of thread is used to form the yarn that is woven into terry loops.

Open-End Cotton. Open end (OE) spinning is a technology to make yarns without a spindle. OE yarns have less twist but a more uniform, abrasion-resistant surface and are produced at much faster speeds than other spinning technologies. Fabrics made from OE yarns generally have a cleaner appearance, but are less soft than garments made with ring spun yarns.

Ottoman. A tightly woven, horizontal raised rib textured knit.

Ounces Per Square Yard A measurement of fabric weight, a weight that customers usually ask for when making a comparison to competitive brands.

Outer Layer. Worn over the base and mid-layers, this layer resists water and wind and has comfortable stretch for mobility.

Overdyed. A process in which yarn-dyed fabrics or piece-dyed garments are put through an additional dye color to create unique colors.

Oxford. A fine, lightweight woven cotton or cotton blend fabric with a 2×1 basket weave variation. Typically used for dress shirts.

Packable A feature that allows for the garment to be folded into a separate or attached pocket. Pashmina Fabric woven from the downy fibers from goats of the mountainous state of Jammu + Kashmir. Also known as Cashmere.

Patch Pocket. A pocket attached to the outside of a garment.

Peached. A soft hand usually obtained by brushing or sanding the fabric lightly. Can be achieved with chemical or laundry abrasion to give the surface a velvet-like appearance and softness.

Peak Lapel. Traditionally the most formal of blazer lapels, it’s defined by edges pointing upwards to the wearer’s shoulders.

Pearlized Buttons. Buttons that have a pearl-colored hue.

Perfect Blend® (District Made). A 50/50 blend of ring-spun combed cotton and poly which makes Perfect Blend tees as good or better than the finest purebred.

Perfect Tri (District Made).  50/25/25 poly/ring spun combed cotton/rayon. The undeniably perfect combination of exceptional softness and laid-back style.

Perfect Weight Cotton® (District/District Made).This extra-fine gauge 32 singles 100% ring spun combed cotton yarn is known for its lightweight softness. It’s then compacted to 4.3 ounces for long-term durability and shrink resistance. The result is garments that look and feel perfect wear after wear.

Peruvian Pima Cotton Peruvian Pima Cotton is often referred to as the “cashmere of cotton” because it is the softest, smoothest, “silkiest” fabric you can wear. Shrinkage standard for Peruvian Pima fabrics is a maximum of 5 x 5 if the garment is washed following directions on the label.

Pewter Buttons. Buttons that have a dull, metallic hue.

PFD Prepared for Dye. Indicates that the garment has been specifically prepared for the garment-dyeing process.

Pewter and Horn Tone Buttons. Buttons that incorporate pewter and horn tone. Usually one encompasses the other.

Picot. A series of small embroidered loops forming an ornamental edging on some ribbon and lace.

Piece Dyed. A dyeing process that occurs when the fabric is in yardage form after it has been knitted or woven, but before the garment is assembled.

Pigment-Dyed. A type of dye process used to create a distressed or washed look that results in soft, muted tones and a soft hand.

Pilling. A tangled ball of fibers that appears on the surface of a fabric as a result of wear or continued friction or rubbing on the surface of the fabric. See Anti-Pill Finish.

Pima Cotton. A term applied to extra-long staple cotton grown in the U.S., Peru, Israel and Australia. It can only be grown in select areas where the cotton is fully irrigated and benefits from a longer growing season for a softer, stronger cotton than standard cotton.

Pinpoint Oxford Two fine yarns that are wrapped together for a fine and luxurious hand.

Pique Knit. A knitting method that creates a fine textured surface that appears similar to a waffle weave. Commonly used for polo shirts.

Pit Zips. Zippers placed in the armpits of a jacket to be used for quick ventilation.

Placket. The part of the shirt or jacket where the garment fastens or buttons together. Types of plackets include: reverse (generally a ladies styles in which the buttons are on the opposite side of a men’s garment), open (in which there are no buttons or fasteners) and decorative (non-functioning).

Pleat. A flat usually narrow fold made in a piece of cloth by pressing or sewing two parts of the cloth together.

Ply. Two or more yarns that have been twisted together.

Polar Fleece Knitted using 100% fine denier polyester yarns. The pile is napped on the front and back to promote a very soft hand with exceptional loft. This is a fine denier knit that also allows the fabric to dry quickly.

Polyester. A strong, durable synthetic fabric with high strength and excellent resiliency. Low moisture absorbency allows the fabric to dry quickly.

Poly-Filled. A warm polyester lining found in the body or sleeves of outerwear.

Polypropylene A very light, highly resistant, thermoplastic resin used to make coatings, packaging and fabrics.

Polyurethane Coating (PU Coating). A finish commonly used in winter jackets, rainwear and windwear to offer high performance water resistance, while maintaining the garment’s breathability.

Ponte Knit. Ponte knits have the forgiveness of a knit, but the versatility of a woven. They’re very stable with a nominal amount of stretching capability.

Popcorn Pique. Alternating rows of baby pique knit and a larger pique knit that resembles small circles knit closely together.

Poplin. A tightly woven, durable, medium-weight cotton or cotton blend made by using a rib variation of the plain weave which creates a slight ridge effect.

Port Pocket Access. A zipper entry pocket that allows the garment to be hooped and embroidered without impacting the inside lining of the garment.

Posicharge Technology video

PosiCharge® Electric Heather (Sport-Tek). With a strong all-over single-dye heather pattern, PosiCharge Electric Heather Fleece is the first high-performance fleece to incorporate Sport-Tek’s popular bleed-resistant, color-locking PosiCharge technology. The PosiCharge Electric Heather pattern is also available in t-shirts and soft shell jackets.

PosiCharge Mesh®. Water-soluble dye process that breaks apart, or ionizes, in the dyeing solution to give off a positively charged colored ion. The cationic ions dye the polyester fibers by linking with the acid groups on the fibers – locking in the color. This results in a better, bleed-resistant, colorfastness.

PosiCharge® RacerMesh® (Sport-Tek). Ultra-fine 100% polyester flat back mesh that offers unparalleled breathability. PosiCharge technology locks in color and keeps logos crisp. Pre-Shrunk. Fabrics or garments that have received a pre-shrinking treatment. Princess Seams. Short, stitched folds that taper to a point, typically used to shape women’s garments. Print Pro® XP Process (Hanes®). A fleece knitting process developed by Hanes that creates a tighter knit for a better printing surface. PVC. A polyurethane coating that is added to make garments water resistant. Quarter-Turned An additional manufacturing process where the mill rotates 1/4 of a turn to put a crease on the side of the product rather then the front of the product. Quilting. A fabric construction in which a layer of down or fiberfill is placed between two layers of fabric, and then held in place by stitching or sealing in a consistent, all-over pattern. Racer back T-shaped back of a tank, dress or sports bra. Raglan Sleeves. An athletic cut sleeve set with a diagonal seam from the neck to the underarm. Offers more freedom of movement in comparison with set-in sleeves. Rapid Dry Technology. Designed with a unique weave to wick away moisture from the body. Rayon. A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters or other vegetable matter, with a soft hand. Frequently used for shirts and pants. Reverse Coil Zipper. Unlike the basic coil zipper, a reverse coil zipper doesn’t show its teeth from the front. Reverse Placket. When the buttons on a placket are on the opposite side from a men’s garment. Commonly done on women’s styles. Rib Knit. A textured knit that has the appearance of vertical lines. It is highly elastic and retains its shape. Commonly used for sleeve and neck bands. Ringer A shirt featuring ribbed crew neck and sleeve bands in a contrasting color. Ring Spun. Yarn made by continuously twisting and thinning a rope of cotton fibers. The twisting makes the short hairs of cotton stand out, resulting in a stronger yarn with a significantly softer hand. Rip-Stop Nylon. A lightweight, wind and water resistant plain weave fabric with large rib yarns that stop tears without adding excess weight. Often used in activewear. Ruching. A French term which means to gather, ruffle or pleat the fabric. Running Stitch. A stitch that is spaced equally, with the underside stitching being half the length of the external side. R-Tek® Fleece. An exclusive lightweight microfleece with a soft, plush hand and an anti-pill finish to resist pilling. 100% polyester. Back to top

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Sandwashed. A process in which the fabric is washed with very fine lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls, resulting in a softer fabric with a relaxed look and reduced shrinkage. Sandwich Hat/Bill A hat where there is contrasting trim between the upper and lower part of the visor or bill. Satin Jersey (Alternative). This fabric has the drape and stretch of jersey plus a luxurious satin wash that sets it apart from other soft cotton and makes it noticeably smooth and sleek. Scoop Neck. Characterized by a deep, rounded neckline that is significantly deeper than normal necklines. Typically found on women’s shirts. Sculpted Hem. A hem that is softly rounded for fashion detail and un-tucked wear. Seamless Collar A collar that is knit in a circle. There are no joining seams on the collar, found in better-made t-shirts. Seam Sealing. The process of treating the stitch holes and seams of a garment to prevent leaking and to ensure full waterproof integrity. Self-Fabric Collar. A collar that is constructed from the same material as the body of the garment. Self-Fabric Sweatband. Refers to a panel of fabric at the front of a cap that is constructed from the same fabric as the crown of the cap. Serge. An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of the fabric to prevent unraveling. Series Performance (New Era). 100% polyester jersey with moisture-wicking and odor-fighting performance. Set-In Sleeves. Most common style of sleeve, which is sewn into the shoulder seam. Sherpa Fleece. A knit terry fabric that has been brushed and washed to raise the fibers for a fluffy, plush feel. The thick terry loops stay soft and absorbent over time. Shoddy Clippings of extra fabric from the production of garments is gathered, sorted by color, then processed into a pulpy material called shoddy. This material is then re-spun into yarn and used to create recycled apparel. Shoulder-To-Shoulder Taping Shoulder seams, as well as neck seam are covered by tape or binding. This reinforces shoulder and neck seams, and reduces separation of the seams. Side-Seamed Tee. Side seam construction is the original, classic construction technique of t-shirt production. The tee is constructed with two large panels, for front and back sections. These panels are stitched together (forming side seams) to ultimately form the torso covering. Sleeves and collars are then attached to finish the shirt. Side Vents. Slits found at the bottom of side seams, used for fashion detailing, as well as comfort and ease of movement. Silk A natural filament fiber produced by the silkworm in the construction of its cocoon. The shimmering appearance for which silk is prized comes from the fiber’s triangular, prism-like structure, which allows silk fabric to refract incoming light at different angles. Silk is recognized for its fine hand and fluid drape. Silk Touch. Our silky soft 65/35 poly/cotton pique blend polo that is durable, wrinkle resistant and shrink resistant. (Not to be confused with silk wash which is a finish on 100% ring spun combed cotton tees for exceptional softness.) Silk Touch Performance. Our high-performance 100% polyester double knit polo that resists snags, wicks moisture and locks in color thanks to PosiCharge® technology. Singles. A term used to indicate the diameter of a yarn. The smaller the number, the thicker the yarn. Single-Needle A stitch, requiring a single needle and thread, characterized by its straight-line pathway. A single-needle seam has been finished with a visible row of stitching, single needle, for additional reinforcement and fashion. Slash Pockets. A pocket in a garment to which access is provided by a vertical or diagonal slit in the outside of the garment. Slub Yarn A yarn of any fiber which is irregular in diameter and characterized by contrasting fat and thin areas along the length of the yarn. The effect may be purposely created to enhance a woven or knitted material, or may occur in error as a yarn flaw. Smoketone Buttons that simulate a smokey grey appearance. Soft Shell. A fabrication that bonds an outer shell to a warm fleece or knit layer resulting in a breathable, flexible and comfortable jacket. All our soft shells have laminate for water resistance. Soft Spun Cotton. Soft spun is an open-end yarn with more twist and a softer exterior to the yarn. The process generally helps lower torque and improve hand feel of the finished fabric. Soft Wash (District). A specialty wash that gives these 100% ring spun combed cotton tees lighter-than-air softness and extra comfort. Soil Release Finish A fabric treatment that helps a garment release stains in the wash. Spandex. A manufactured elastometric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking and will still recover to its original length. Sphere Dry (NIKE). A patented fabric with a raised bumpy surface that lines the inside of the shirt, which not only creates an appealing athletic-inspired texture, but also works like a funnel to draw perspiration from the inside out. The fabric’s three-dimensional construction also creates air space around the body to reduce cling. Sport-Wick® Fleece. An anti-static fleece that provides moisture wicking by releasing moisture from the inner layers.

Stain Release. A fabric treatment that helps a garment release stains in the wash.

Stain Repel. A fabric treatment that helps spills and stains easily roll off.

Staple The actual length of a cotton fiber. Stonewashed. A process in which the fabric or garment is heavily washed with lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls, resulting in a softer fabric with a distressed, weathered look and reduced shrinkage. Storm Flap. A piece of fabric that covers and protects an opening, usually a zipper, on an item of clothing. It is designed to add another barrier on more vulnerable parts of the clothing to protect against wind and moisture. StormRepel® (Eddie Bauer). A durable water-repellent (DWR) finish that sheds moisture so it doesn’t soak in. Structured. A headwear term referring to a buckram lining used to control the slope of the cap. Sublimation. A type of printing that uses sublimation ink, heat and pressure to transfer an image onto polyester fabric. Sueded. A process in which fabric goes through a brushing process to raise the nap and give the garment a soft hand. Sueded Cotton (New Era). A retro-inspired blend of 60/40 sueded ring spun cotton/poly that has amazing softness and a loft hand feel. Super Heavyweight Fleece. A 12-ounce cross-grain heavyweight fleece. 80% ring spun combed cotton. 20% polyester.

SuperPro (Port Authority/CornerStone). Hardworking woven shirts that repel and release stains while resisting wrinkles.

Super Slub (District Made). A unique thick-n-thin slub yarn that mingles super style with super value.

Tanguis Cotton developed and grown in the Canete’s valley (south of Lima, Peru) and in the central coast of Peru The tanguis seeds produce a plant that has a 40% longer (between 29 mm and 33 mm) and thicker fiber that did not break easily and required little water Taped Seams. A strip of fabric sewn to the seam of a garment to prevent distortion. In outerwear, taped seams aid in waterproofing. Taping A design feature whereby a piece of fabric is used to cleanly cover a seam. The term is used when referring to shoulder-to-shoulder taping. Taslan. A durable and water repellent nylon fabric with a slightly shiny surface, used mainly in outerwear garments. Tattersall. A pattern of dark lines forming squares on a light background. Teklon. A rugged, stronger Taslan nylon that is water repellent. Tencel® A fiber made from wood pulp. Tencel gives fabric a very soft, smooth and luxurious hand. Terra-Tek Nylon. Durable and water repellent with a matte finish. Terry Velour. A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile on the reverse side. It has a soft, plush feel and is water absorbent. Commonly used for towels, robes and apparel. ThermoBall® (The North Face) The North Face® developed a partnership with PrimaLoft® to offer a synthetic alternative down. ThermoBall® is a revolution in insulation technology. Unlike traditional, continuous-filament synthetic insulations, the same round PrimaLoft® synthetic fiber clusters closely mimic down cluster; trapping heat within small air pockets to retain warmth. Independent testing has shown that ThermoBall® technology can offer the low weight, warmth and compressibility of down with the wet-weather insulating performance of synthetics. ThermoBall® has the warmth equivalent of 600 fill down. Therma-FIT (NIKE). Nike Therma-FIT is a double-brushed microfiber fleece that retains energy and resists heat loss. Nike Therma-FIT provides maximum insulation from cold and wind with minimal weight and bulk. It is ideal for any cold weather activities that require insulation. Thumbholes. Openings at the cuffs so they cover the back of the hands and the palms for warmth and enhanced fit. Tie-Dye. A method of producing patterns by tying parts of the fabric to shield it from the dye. Tri-Blend (District). A unique, soft blend of poly, cotton and rayon that has heathered look. Tri-Blend (New Era). A 50/38/12 poly/ring spun combed cotton/rayon blend that wicks moisture and has unbeatable softness. Tricot. A knit fabric of various natural or synthetic fibers like wool, silk, nylon or polyester having fine vertical ribs on the face and horizontal ribs on the back. Tricot Lining. A very lightweight nylon lining often used in shorts. Triple-Needle Stitched. A finish commonly used on a sleeve or bottom hem that uses three needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching, giving the garment a cleaner, more finished look, as well as adding durability. Tubular Collar. A collar knit in a tube form, so it has no seams. Tubular Knit Fabric manufactured in a complete circle without seams. Tuck-In Tails. A shirt constructed so the back hem is longer than the front. This aids in keeping the shirt tucked-in during normal activities. Tuck Stitch. Refers to the look of the knit where some stitches are actually under the other stitches. Gives the shirt a waffle weave texture and look. Tulip Hem. Two overlapping pieces of fabric at the hem of a garment which creates the look of a tulip petal. Twill. A fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish. Commonly used for casual woven shirts. Twill Tape. Attached to the inside of the placket for a fashion effect. Two Ply. A yarn in which its thickness is made up of two layers or strands, adding durability and weight. Two-Ply Yarn Two strands of thread are used to form the yarn that is woven into terry loops. Underarm Grommets. Small holes in the armpit area to allow breathability and air circulation. Unstructured. A headwear term referring to a low profile cap with a naturally low sloping crown. No buckram has been added to the crown for structure. UV-Protective Fabric. A term used to refer to a fabric that resists the ability of ultraviolet rays to penetrate the fabric. Protects the fabric from fading and the wearer’s skin from UV rays. Back to top

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V Patch. A section of material in a V shape that is sewn onto a garment directly under the collar, providing support against stretching the neck opening. Also a style detail. V-Neck A type of neckline that forms a “V” at the front of the neck. Commonly used in shirts, t shirts and sweaters. Vents. An opening in a garment which assists breathability and can aid in ease of decoration, allowing the garment to be hooped and embroidered with no visibility on the inside lining of the garment. Some vents are tacked down and are for fashion purposes only. Vintage 50/50 (Alternative). Alternative’s 50/50 fabrication feels unlike any you’ve ever worn before. Soft and loosely knit for a perfectly worn-in fit, it has a vintage-soft feel that gets better with every wear. Waffle Knit. A square pattern knit into a garment. Waffle Weave. A square pattern woven into a garment. Waterproof. Keeps outside moisture from penetrating the fabric. The waterproof rating is typically expressed in milliliters (1,000mm to 10,000mm) based on water pressure tolerance over a 24-hour period. Generally, the higher the rating, the higher the waterproof protection. Water Repellent. A fabric’s ability to cause moisture to bead up and roll off a garment. Water Resistant. Keeps the wearer dry in moderate wind and rain. Very breathable, allowing air to pass through while keeping moisture at bay. In extreme or extended conditions, waterproofing is a better solution.

WeatherEdge® (Eddie Bauer). Reliable, breathable waterproof protection that is ideal for general uses and moderate activity. WeatherEdge® Plus laminate offers serious weather protection for those who demand high performance in a wide range of activities.

Weathered Twill. A special dye process resulting in a softer fabric with a weathered appearance. Welded Pockets. The technique by which seams are affixed to one another without stitching. Welt Collar/Cuffs. A single ply fabric with a finished edge that is used for collars and cuffs on sport shirts and short sleeve garments. Also known as flat knit. WindWall® (The North Face). WindWall fabrics greatly reduce the effects of wind chill while providing flexibility and breathability to stay comfortable without overheating. Wind guard Strip of fabric sewn under or over the front zip or snap closure of an outerwear garment to protect against wind and moisture. Also referred to as a Wind flap Wind shirt. A typically water and wind resistant outerwear piece. Popular for golfers. Wind Resistant. The ability of a fabric to act against or oppose the penetration of wind or air, without being completely windproof. Wickability. The ability of a fiber or a fabric to disperse moisture and allow it to pass through to the surface, so that evaporation can take place. Wicking. Dispersing or spreading of moisture or liquid through a given area by capillary action in a fabric. Wood Tone Buttons. Buttons that simulate a wood appearance. Wool. Usually associated with fiber or fabric made from the fleece of sheep or lamb. The term wool can also be applied to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama or vicuna. Woven. Fabric constructed by the interlacing of two or more sets of yarns at right angles to each other. Woven fabrics are commonly used for dress shirts and camp shirts. Wrinkle-Free The basic process for imparting the wrinkle free finish into fabric involves applying a resin into the fabric, drying and curing at extremely high temperatures to the desired dimension, scouring to remove any residual chemicals, and final drying. The application and curing of wrinkle-free may occur before or after the garments are produced. “Pre-cured wrinkle-free” means that the finish has been applied to the fabric before the garment has been manufactured. Because the “post-cure wrinkle-free” means that the finish has been applied after the garment has been manufactured and because the “post-cure wrinkle-free” process is set into the final, pressed garment, it is more popular. Yarn Dyed. A term used when yarn is dyed prior to the weaving or knitting of the garment. Y-Neck A neckline which has the shape of a “Y” Yoke. A part of the garment fitted closely to the shoulders. Typically seen on the back as on a dress shirt, but may also be on the front, as on a Western style shirt. Zipper Garage. A fold of soft fabric around the end of the zipper that helps prevent a scratched or irritated chin. Also known as a chin guard.